We had been staying at Waves and Wifi Coliving in Popoyo for a few weeks, fully immersed in the surf bubble. At some point, we felt it was time to explore a bit more of Nicaragua. Our choice fell on Granada, one of the most popular and charming towns in the country.
Granada is about 1.5 hours from Popoyo by car, and since we had a scooter rented for our entire stay, doing the trip by bike felt like the cheaper and better choice. Taxis in Nicaragua aren’t super cheap (I think that trip would be around 35 USD one way), public transport can take a lot longer, and taking a scooter gives you the freedom and flexibility to experience everything on your own terms.
This free guide covers our weekend road trip from Popoyo to Granada by scooter, the best things to do in Granada, and a bonus activity: diving in Apoyo Lagoon. We left Popoyo on Saturday at 9 am and returned the following day at around 3 pm.
Important advice: It’s best to get an e-sim instead of a physical one in Nicaragua!
Popoyo to Granada by motorcycle – Route Overview
We left Popoyo at 9 am so the sun wouldn’t be full blast while riding. The entire route from Popoyo to Granada is fully paved and in good condition, which makes it a very comfortable ride. It takes about 45 minutes from Popoyo to the Ochomogo junction, where you connect to the Panamericana Highway (CA-1). From there, it’s another 60 minutes to Granada. Google Maps worked perfectly for us the entire way.
Driving through the countryside was amazing. You really get a glimpse into local life, pass small villages, farmland, and eventually see the volcanoes appear in the distance. The road weren’t too busy and overall the ride felt very safe and relaxed.
FAQ: Is this route suitable for a scooter?
Absolutely. We did the trip with two people on one automatic scooter and had no issues at all. I guess the only thing was our bums hurting after around 1 hour, but the occasional stop to look at the landscape helped a lot. It took us around 1 hour 45 minutes to get from Popoyo to Granada by scooter.
We didn’t encounter any police checkpoints on this route, but as always in Nicaragua, make sure to wear a helmet and carry your license.
Read all about my experience at Waves & Wifi Coliving in Popoyo
24 Hours in Granada – The Best Things to Do
Once we arrived in Granada, we checked into our accommodation, parked our scooter, and explored the city on foot. Our hotel advised us to park the bike in their gated area and not leave it outside overnight. This is definitely something you should keep in mind when booking your accommodation. You really don’t want to wake up and find your bike gone the next morning. Our hotel wasn’t super luxurious but we only slept there, so for that it was totally fine. The town centre was in around 5 minutes walking distance.
Our first stop was a wholesome lunch at Garden Café – what a great spot. After that, we joined a free walking tour, which lasted around two hours. I didn’t know much about Nicaragua’s history before, and hearing it from a local perspective was very eyey-opening. The highlight was the view from the Mercedes Church clock tower overlooking the city, Lake Nicaragua, and the surrounding volcanoes. Entry was only USD 1.
In the evening, we had dinner at Burrocks. We originally wanted local food, but they had amazing vegan and vegetarian options. Afterwards, we strolled through town, watching people hang out in parks, listen to music, and spend time together. Observing local life is my favourite things to do in cities.
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Bonus: Diving in Apoyo Lagoon
For the following day we had some exciting plans. As professional divers, we couldn’t miss the opportunity to do a volcano lake dive at Apoyo Lagoon. Granada sits next to Lake Nicaragua – the big lake you see at the pier area in town. Apoyo Lagoon is a completely different lake, about a 30-minute drive from Granada. It’s a volcanic crater lake formed thousands of years ago and filled with freshwater.
After waking up, we headed to the pier area in Granada and then headed towards Apoyo Lagoon. Tip: Skip breakfast in Granada and have it at Freedivers Nicaragua (Hypoxic Monkey Café) instead – they have amazing veggie and non veggie breakfast options and coffee, and open at 7.30 am.
We met at Volcano Divers at 9 am to meet our guide William. We were a group of 6 people. The price was USD 35 per person, which we found very reasonable. It included all equipment except for a dive computer. The water temperature in the lagoon is around 27-29 °C and it’s not standard to wear a wetsuit. I get cold easily and love my 3mm in Thailand, so I was given a wetsuit. If you have a rashguard it’s definitely worth bringing it.
The dive itself was very interesting and completely different from tropical ocean diving. It wasn’t colourful and visibility was only 5 metres, but you don’t get to dive in a volcano lake very often, do you? We saw fish species that are unique to the lagoon, and the most amazing part was the geothermal activity. In some areas, the sediment on the bottom feels noticeably warm. Our guide pushed a stick into the ground and warm gas bubbles rose up. All in all the experience was worth it!
Ready for more? Here is a DIY scooter itinerary from Popoyo to Ometepe!
Driving Back from Apoyo to Popoyo via Catarina
On the way back, we decided to take the route from Apoyo Lake via Catarina instead of driving via Granada. The road via Pacaya is paved and in good condition. It passes many local plant shops and nurseries, which are so beautiful!
Advice for your Popoyo-Granada Trip
1 Fuel up before leaving Popoyo
It’s best to leave Popoyo with a full tank. The next gas stations are on the Panamericana. One full tank was more than enough for us driving from Popoyo to Granada. The same applies for the return journey, make sure to leave with a full tank.
2 Wear long clothes and proper shoes
For the journey I highly recommend to cover your skin, wear sunscreen and sneakers instead of sandals. This is a lot safer and more comfortable. Also bring enough water to keep yourself hydrated throughout the journey.
3 Arrive open-minded
I’d like to invite you to visit Granada with curious eyes. Instead of chasing perfect photo spots, maybe try to connect with locals and learn about the country’s history. The walking tours are a great way to do it!
Popoyo to Granada – Final thoughts
All in all our weekend trip from Granada to Popoyo was absolutely worth it. I returned to Popoyo feeling a lot more connected to Nicaragua, and it was so fun exploring new cafés and wandering real Nicaraguan streets. Not to forget the volcano dive! The road conditions were overall really good and the trip is totally doable by motorcycle or scooter.
